Karpata

It is one of the sites people name when asked for the best wall on the island.

The reef drops away steeply a short swim out and the coral cover is dense: sponges, gorgonians and old mooring blocks from the plantation era at around twelve metres. The entry is the hard part — you climb down over ironshore, which is sharp and awkward with a tank. Boots and a buddy who can take your fins are worth more here than anywhere else.

Come in the morning; the wind builds through the day and this stretch of coast is exposed. There is no charge beyond the nature fee, and no facilities of any kind. Reckon on two hours with the drive, an hour of that in the water.