The Queen Emma pontoon bridge in Willemstad

Cruise calls

Two ports, two completely different days

If your ship calls at both islands, do not plan them the same way. In Willemstad you step off into the middle of the old town and everything worth seeing is inside two kilometres, so you walk. In Kralendijk the port is in the centre too, but the parts of Bonaire people come back for are twenty to thirty kilometres out, so you drive.

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That single difference decides almost everything else: what you book, what you spend, and how much of the day you get to keep. On Curaçao, the money you would have spent on a tour is better spent on lunch. On Bonaire, the car is not optional if you want to see more than the harbour front.

Both days below start and end at the pier, so you are never gambling on getting back in time. Pick the port you are calling at.

The two ports

The coast of Bonaire seen from the air

Kralendijk

Bonaire

Rent a car and drive one half of the island. Trying to do the whole loop in a six-hour call is the mistake almost everyone makes.

Kralendijk — The two ports
Getting around Rental car or taxi — walking gets you the harbour front and no further
Full island route 70 km, 16 stops, 3 to 4 hours of driving
Fits a six-hour call Half of it. North or south, not both
Walking involved Little, apart from the staircase at 1000 Steps
Six hours on Bonaire
The Handelskade waterfront in Willemstad, Curaçao

Willemstad

Curaçao

Walk. The terminal sits inside the old town, and everything worth seeing is within two kilometres of the gangway. You need neither a bus nor a car.

Willemstad — The two ports
Getting around On foot, from the terminal
How far it is The whole of historic Willemstad sits inside two kilometres of the pier
Walking involved All of it — the one climb in the city is the viewpoint above Otrobanda
Audio-guided routes In the making for Willemstad; not in the app yet
A day in Willemstad

Photo of the Queen Emma Bridge: dronepicr, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons. Resized.

How long is your ship in?

On Bonaire that decides half the answer. Six hours ashore gets you one excursion; twelve gets you two, or a day that goes right round the island. On the Bonaire page you pick how long you are in and then what kind of day you want — on the water, in the water, on the road, or simply in town — and only then do the excursions that fit show up.

Pick your day on Bonaire

If you call at both

Do the walking day first if the itinerary lets you choose. Willemstad is the easier day and a good way to find your rhythm; Bonaire asks more of you, because you are behind the wheel and watching the clock.

Do not try to repeat the Curaçao formula on Bonaire. There is a pleasant hour to be had along the Kralendijk waterfront, and after that hour you will wish you had a car.

What about Aruba?

Aruba is not in the guide today. It is on the list of islands we would like to add, but there is no date and nothing is promised. If your ship calls there, plan that day some other way.

The route on your phone

Every stop on this page is in the Beyond the Beach app, with the map and the directions on your phone. Download it before you leave the ship and it works wherever you are, wifi or not. The app, the day routes and the trips are free; the audio tours are a separate purchase — a one-off, yours for good.