Rumba's Cafe

It runs from breakfast straight through to dinner, which few places here do: eggs and coffee in the morning, burgers, salads and New York-style pizza later on, and smoothies all day. The terrace faces west over the water, so it works as a coffee stop in the morning and a sunset drink in the afternoon without changing tables.

Open Monday to Saturday from 08:00 to 22:00 and closed on Sunday. Prices are café prices rather than restaurant prices, which on this stretch of boulevard makes it the cheapest seat with a sea view. Half an hour for coffee, an hour or two for a meal; no reservation needed.

The early opening is the thing worth remembering. Divers heading out on a morning boat and anyone catching a flight can get a proper breakfast here at eight, when most of the waterfront is still shuttered. On a cruise day it is the first table you reach walking off the pier, so it is busiest between nine and eleven.