At Sea

It is the most ambitious kitchen on the island and one of the few Caribbean members of Jeunes Restaurateurs, the European association of young chefs. The menu changes with what comes in and leans on fish and shellfish; the format is a tasting menu of four, five or six courses rather than a long à la carte list. Wine pairings run from around thirty-six dollars for four glasses to fifty-four for six.

Dinner only, and the dining room is small — reservations are effectively required, and in high season worth making days ahead rather than on the day. The terrace faces west over the water, so ask for it and book early enough to be seated before sunset. Allow three hours for a full menu; this is an evening, not a stop.